|Nevado Piramide (5907m) Ancohuma* (6427m) & Illampu (6356m)
*This mountain is also known as Jankohuma, Janq’uma, Hancouma
Nevado Piramide (5907m), Ancohuma (6427m) and Illampu (6356m) are all located in the northern part of the Cordillera Real. Nevado Piramide is not a technically demanding climb but is a good acclimatizing peak before you attempt the summits of Ancohuma and Illampu. Ancohuma is the second highest peak in the Cordillera Real and a fairly basic climb. Illampu, the furthest north peak, is considered by indigenous folklore to be the king of the mountains. Illampu is one of the hardest climbs both physically and technically in the Sorata Massif and in Bolivia.
Please check the gear list to see what you will need to bring for the trip.
Day 1: Sorata (2700m) – Mina Susana (4000m)
A 4WD road takes us to the base of some old mines where we will make our base camp. Here you can take a walk up to the mine, and have a look around the old mine site.
Day 2: Mina Susana (Base camp) – High camp of Nevada Piramide (5000m)
The porters will take all the equipment and personal gear up to the high camp. Walking up we will pass the old mine, and follow llama tracks to get us to our high camp. We set up high camp just below the moraine with views of Lake Titikaka (3810m).
Day 3: High camp – Summit (5907m) – High camp – Base camp
An early start because we will have a long days climb and it will be cold. First we will climb over the moraine and then onto the glacier to take us to the summit. From here there are great views of the Alitplano (4000m), Lake Titikaka, Sajama (6549m), Illamni (6439m) and Huayna Potosi (6088m).Then back to high camp where we meet the porters, and back down to base camp.
Day 4: Mina Susana – Laguna Glaciar (5000m)
This will be a long day of climbing and traversing to Laguna Glaciar. Here we will have porters to carry all the equipment and personal gear. Arriving at Laguna Glaciar we will be able to see Illampu and Ancohuma.
Day 5: Laguna Glaciar (Base camp) – High camp of Ancohuma (5400m)
This day is short, so we have a free morning and leave after lunch. First we will be climbing on the moraine and then onto the ice .We make high camp on the glacier.
Day 6: High camp – Summit (6427m) – High camp – Base camp
An early start for the summit as it is a long day, with walking on the glacier to 6000m, from here we have a 400m climb to the summit. Great views of Illampu and Laguna Negra. After a short rest we will head back to high camp where we meet the porters who take all the equipment and personal gear back down to base camp.
Day 7: Base camp – Aguas Caliente (4200m)
Traversing back towards Laguna Chilate along the base of Pico Shultz and then we will rise up to the pass of Huila Khota (4886m) before dropping back down to the base camp of Illampu.
Day 8: Aguas Caliente (Base camp)
This will be a rest day in Aguas Caliente.
Day 9: Base camp – High camp of Illampu (5200m)
Porters will carry all equipment and personal gear up to the high camp. We will climb over the old glacier slabs and climb along the valley of the mountain. We will make camp just below the last glacier.
Day 10: High camp – Summit (6356m) – High camp – Base camp
This is a very long day and we will need to leave very early in the morning. There will be a 2 hour walk up to the base of the wall, from where we will start to pitch up the wall, climbing on ice up to 60° for 400m. Then just a further 300m on the ridge until the summit. After a short rest we will come the same way back down.
Day 11: Base camp – Sorata
An easy walk back down to Sorata
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